Last updated 23 December 1999
Fortunately, Ray Gannon has found a source for the fuse and provided these photos showing where it is and how to replace it. The item in question is a Littelfuse (yes, that is the correct spelling!) Nano series 125V 1.5A fuse. You can get these from Digi-Key pretty cheaply—though you may have to buy a ten-pack (Digi-Key part number F1144CT-ND, $10.60 plus shipping), it's still worth it to get your camera working again! WARNING: Unless you're a skilled electronics technician with the right tools, you are likely to damage your camera while trying to replace this fuse. (Needless to say, opening up the camera will also void your warranty.) In short, don't attempt this unless you know what you're doing and are prepared to risk the possible consequences. If you have any doubts about your ability to tackle this job yourself, there is an alternative: print out both this page and the Disassembly page and take the printouts (along with your camera) to any local radio/TV repair shop. They will have no problem replacing the fuse for you, and it shouldn't be too expensive if you give them this information. See the Disassembly page for instructions on how to take the camera apart. Once you've done that, you can see the culprit: ![]() This is a surface-mount device, so the usual precautions apply: use a low-wattage, temperature-controlled soldering iron, rosin-core (not acid-core!) solder and a light touch—don't heat the circuit board or components any more than you have to.
If you have tips or suggestions about either of these two cameras, or if you've found any accessories I haven't mentioned here, send email to Andy Baird so I can put the information on this page. ![]() |